Wild Selected Places: South Luangwa
When you think about the classic African safari destinations there’s a few places that immediately come to mind. The endless plains of the Serengeti and Masai Mari. South Africa’s world-famous Krüger and the private game reserves. The waterways and floodplains of the Okavango Delta. However, there’s a place that seems like time stood still, one that transport you back in time and shows you Africa what it once was before it was fully discovered: South Luangwa national park.
The fact that this pristine land is untouched by mass-tourism that so many of the famous safari-destinations, there’s no wonder why this part of Zambia has earned its reputation of being one of the best places for wildlife in the whole world. In this post I wish to highlight why this part of Africa is so special, and why it should be at the very top as your next safari destination.
South Luangwa lies in the remote corner of Zambia’s north-east, at the very end of the Great Rift valley. Here you find a wide range of different biomes, ranging from savannas, grasslands and woodlands, to montane forests, freshwater lakes and riverine forests. This goes to show you the diversity of this place. These habitats in turn supports a huge diversity of wildlife which contains some of the densest concentrations in all of Africa. It’s a place where the rhythms of the African bush beats and gives you the sense of a true wilderness, the best way a safari should be experienced.
The Luangwa itself is one of the last remaining untouched river systems in all of Africa. The life-giving river starts in the Mafinga hills near the border with Tanzania and Malawi as it flows southward, forming the parks eastern border, before connecting with the mighty Zambezi river. On this journey it passes through what is the Luangwa valley, one of the most extraordinary ecosystems on the African continent. Wildlife from all around are drawn towards this source of life throughout the year, all coming here to quench their thirst and to eat. All the iconic wildlife we all admire are waved into this tapestry of life, and this is a place that mirrors a picture of what Africa was at the very first dawn.
The Valley of the Leopards
With so much life, South Luangwa supports an incredible dense number of predators which already sets it apart from the rest of Africa. Here prides of lions and packs of African wild dogs hunts in the valleys open plains and oxbow lakes. But first and foremost is South Luangwa known as the «Valley of the Leopards». The densest leopard population in all of Africa is found right here, and the amount not quality sightings that these shy, big cats provide is second to none. The parks habitats like ebony grooves, sausage trees and oxbow lagoons are ideal places for these incredible felines. Leopards like big, strong trees which they often escapes up in to, be it for resting comfortably in during the day or to get away with their kill from other predators which compete for the same food sources.
It’s not unusual to see all the big predators in one day. There’s not many places than can offer the same chances of this, and goes to show you how special this valley is. The chances of having African wild dogs hunting along the Luangwa river, or having a big, male lion with the Ebony grove where the golden light breaks through are the moments we all hope for. Here these kind of experiences are normal, a wildlife photographer’s dream.
From the majestic elephants gracefully patrolling the river banks to the many different antelopes. South Luangwa also contains the Thornicroft’s giraffe, Coockson’s wildebeests and Crawshay’s zebra, three species endemic to this part of Africa. The game viewing is spectacular and captivating that takes your breath away.
Birds of the Luangwa
The Luangwa valley is a birdwatcher’s paradise. It’s home to well over 400 species which contains both permanent residents, seasonal migrants, and some rare species. Listen to the «call of Africa» from the African fish-eagle echoing through the valley, and look up for powerful martial eagles soaring above the savannah. Look for the African jacana walking on the water plants in the lagoons, and watch kingfishers diving from an overhanging branch to catch fish along the rivers. Catch a glimpse of the elusive Pel’s fishing owl, one of the rarest raptors in all of Africa. As with the changing of the seasons the valley comes alive when thousands of Southern Carmine bee-eaters filling the sky in flashes of crimson and turquoise. Embark on a night drive for a world that is ruled by the Verreaux’s eagle-owl.
Birds are ever-present in the Luangwa valley as every season and moment is filled by their wing-beats and calls
The Different Seasons
With the changing in the seasons they offer something different to the valley. The green season from November to April brings with it dramatic skyes, rolling thunderstorms and rain showers turning the landscape emerald green and lush. The migratory birds are residents, and the animals give birth to their offsprings. This is the valley at its most picturesque with the Luangwa river rising, and the lagoons and ponds starts to fill up. The wildlife are precent, while predators are on the move. African wild dogs hunts pukus through the floodplains and leopards peaking through dense, green vegetation of the Fig Trees.
With the summer season coming to an end the landscape starts to dry and the air is crisp. The once emerald green vegetation is replaced by the colors of brown and gold. The golden light of the early mornings and late afternoon starts to pain the landscape as it breaks through the retreating vegetation. The dynamics of the valley changes as the wildlife draws closer to the shrinking Lunagwa river from the previous filled-up lagoons. The predator action starts to take off as the dry season tightens its grip when the wildlife are gathered around the only remaining water source. Hippos and crocodiles are forced into shallow pools with little to no space. This is Africa at its most dramatic and intense.
The Best Camp
South Luangwa never feels crowded. Whit this caliber of wildlife sightings it’s still remote and untouched, all contributing to uniqueness of this place. A wide variety of camps and lodges offers something for everyone. Our «Valley of the Leopard» itinerary are bases around what is one of the best camps with both luxury and location packed into one perfect option. When we enter the park we head for our base for the whole stay, Kaingo Camp. Located right along the Luangwa river itself. It’s a strategic base which eliminate the lost time when entering and leaving the park every day. It maximizes our time in the field, and whit the view overlooking the life-line of the valley itself the action and drama is right outside our doorstep. The Kaingo Camp itself offers one of the best accommodations in the whole South Luangwa national park. Beautifully and freshly prepared meals. Beautifully created and scenic rooms, all nice and clean. One large, open-sided chalet with a dinning area as the main point with a relaxed atmosphere in a prime wilderness area. Built in 1992, it’s a historic place which offers the finest experience possible. For our «Valley of the Leopards» safari we’ll spend 6 nights here surrounded by the most friendly staff and finest guides that Zambia has to offer. It adds to the whole experience as we can be sure our needs are taken care off when we return from our spectacular game drives.
For an even more exclusive experience have we chosen Kaingo Camp for our stay. The reason for this is the selection of incredible photographic hides that’s sure to get our attention. Visiting these hides are a must, not only for wildlife photographers, but to also get a more personal experience. These hides are placed at both ground and water level allowing us to get up close and personal with the variety of wildlife. The biggest highlight of them all will be the carmine bee-eater hide. At the end of every dry season thousands of birds flocks in to the valley for nesting along the dry river beds. We’re gone be right up close to the action for shots that without would be extremely difficult. Another treat of this experience, and one not to miss.
So I hope I was successful in bringing you with me and giving you a glimpse of what a truly remarkable wilderness the Luangwa valley is. Choosing the right destination for a safari will make all the difference, and you don’t wanna pick the wrong location. A safari is first and foremost about the wildlife sightings, but it’s also about more than just that. You wanna stay at a place that can offer as much value as possible, be it from spectacular game viewing to the breathtaking scenarios, as well as at a lodge can connects you with the people you meet between the safaris.
As you can see, South Luangwa doesn’t just meet your expectations, it surpasses them. There’s no better place to experience the wilds of Africa that connects you with nature. The journey through this ancient valley will transport you back in time when Africa was untouched and undiscovered. This is a safari that will move you and never leave you once you’ve experienced it.
Photos: Lars Martin Holta & Kaingo Camp.
Until next time, all the best!
Kind regards Lars Martin Holta
Lars Martin Holta
Founder, wildlife photographer, tour leader & field guide